Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:03 AM
Subject: blaine in roma
Found myself sitting in the Coliseum today, the sun came out, it was my first time inside the old colossus, I have seen it from outside many times but it never seemed to be open. this place is crawling with tour groups of the faithful from all over the world since it is the Jubileum, the Millenium of Christianity. I find myself wishing that Julian the Apostate had been successful in re-instating paganism. Damn christians everywhere. We went to a Mithraeum deep within the bowels of some cathedral or other, an old temple to the cult of Mithra which was the immediate predecessor to Christianity as the going religion in rome and from which Christianity lifted much of its symbolism, its mythos, its sabbath, the birthdate of its deity (December 25) the fact that he died and rose, even the communal feast and on and on and on.
Ya caint spit without hitting some piece of ancientness chock full of history and roman good time stories. “This here’s where they flogged the prisoners of war to death. This here’s the cliff where they threw unwanted babies onto the rocks. this here’s where they fed lions to the christians.” Oh my god, they forced the christians to eat whole lions. what savages.
it’s morning we’re in rome, have to go out and rehearse soon. we’re all staying here in an apt. we have rented for five days then it’s more concerts. this is one hell of a large town and unlike athens the ancient co-exists with the modern. can’t walk down the street without seeing some old thang, some column or some pillar with 1000 year old inscriptions.
we rode out to the place where we will play here along the appian way its own bad self. turns out that Via Appia is a prestigious address (makes sense) and many of the great and the good vie to live there. the original road survives to some extent. i felt a sense of exhiliration to be moving through a perceived corridor in time, somehow at one with emperors and baggage trains full of the debris of empire on their way in to this city.
I feel ambivalent towards all of this papal voodoo as only a lapsed Catholic can. I just wish that the christians hadn’t planted the cross atop every phallic symbol around, every obelisk, Trajan’s column, everything. Ah well.
Here until Thursday, on to Germany, Russia, Austria, back to Sicily, Naples, then back to Athens.